What percentage of rope strength does the bowline knot retain?

The bowline knot is well-regarded in rescue and climbing applications for its ability to create a fixed loop at the end of a rope. It retains approximately 60-70% of the rope's original strength when tied, with most sources agreeing that it is closer to 65%. This high retention rate is key for situations in which it is essential to maintain the integrity of the rope under load.

Understanding the percentage of strength retained is crucial for rescuers and climbers, as it impacts safety and effectiveness in high-risk scenarios. The bowline's ability to maintain significant strength also contributes to its popularity in various applications, including rope rescue. The knot’s security under load while remaining relatively easy to untie after use makes it very practical for emergency situations.

Overall, knowing that the bowline retains around 65% of the rope's strength assists responders in assessing their gear and ensuring safety protocols are properly followed.